Any self respecting food blogger knows all about the ones that 'come good'; the bloggers that go on to write about their love of food and actually get paid for the passion.
I've have books by Clotilde, David, Adam and Pim (and Steve, though not strictly a food blogger), I read the mainstream media articles written by local bloggers and cheer on our community's victorious moments at regular get togethers.
So it's with the same interest that I keenly accepted an invitation to the latest instalment of these victories; a food bloggers story being made into a book, that then gets made into a movie...
No doubt, I am the marketing trifecta when it comes to the Julie and Julia movie.
Chick - check.
Foodie - check.
Blogger - check.
So I guess I was destined to love it and I did... well actually I loved it more when I, as a good blogger, (not one of those naughty, unresearching ones that all the boring people talk about) did my due diligence looking at examples of both Julie and Julia's work. Initially, watching Meryl Streep play Julia Child all I could see was a frumpy version of the Devil not wearing Prada, and then that thought morphed into an annoying drunk drag queen that likes to grunt. I was disappointed by her strange acting...UNTIL I watched this and this and this. Now I think Meryl is a genius, close to the god like status Dan Aykroyd has in his interpretation but you'll need to see the film for that clip!
I was fortunate enough to watch the film in the luxury of a big fat lazyboy style arm chair while eating Julia Childs recipe for boeuf bourguignon with creamy mash and sipping Red Claw Shiraz. You can to with a special deal at Victoria Village Gold Class, check it out here.
If you are even half as keen as me when it comes to foodie things, I know you will enjoy it immensely. I think I need to see it again just to pull out all my favourite quotes and scenes... who doesn't remember with excitement their first comment?
Showing posts with label Review. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Review. Show all posts
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Friday, June 26, 2009
Coda Bar + Restaurant
I keep starting and restarting this post; how do I describe the food at Coda that actually informs a diner more thoroughly than what I was before we visited?
I thought about what we ate and when, how we ate it, and then thought about the house named roll and how it essentially sums up the Coda palate:
'Coda roll, crisp parcel of bone marrow, ginger, shiitake mushroom and rice paddy herb'
Essentially a spring roll with pieces of bone marrow, shiitake and ginger inside, served with a lemon based dressing and stalks of lemony rice paddy herb. The bone marrow was rich and palate coating yet the dressing and herb add a refreshing acid lift.
I loved this. I love the seamless fusion of the ideas.
All the other dishes we ate were not neat fusions of Eur-Asian ideas such as the Coda Roll. The menu seemed to be split into South East Asian dishes focusing on Vietnam and Thailand or pure French benchmarks such as parfait, tartare and terrine. Yet as you would expect from a modern Australian menu there was Asian produce mixed through the European stalwarts; so oysters served with mirin and pomelo, or ginger in our coleslaw makes perfect sense, to us.
What didn't make perfect sense to me was the powerful flavours of Asia served at the same time as delicate French classics; my MacLeay Valley rabbit cassoulet was absolutely swamped on the taste front, by the in-your-face aromats of mussels stir fried with rice wine, chinese sausage and chilli. Likewise our steak tartare seemed under seasoned (perhaps it was) in comparison to the 'Quail Delight' flavour bombs or the spanner crab, galangal, chilli and lime betel leaves.
I thought about what we ate and when, how we ate it, and then thought about the house named roll and how it essentially sums up the Coda palate:
'Coda roll, crisp parcel of bone marrow, ginger, shiitake mushroom and rice paddy herb'
Essentially a spring roll with pieces of bone marrow, shiitake and ginger inside, served with a lemon based dressing and stalks of lemony rice paddy herb. The bone marrow was rich and palate coating yet the dressing and herb add a refreshing acid lift.
I loved this. I love the seamless fusion of the ideas.
All the other dishes we ate were not neat fusions of Eur-Asian ideas such as the Coda Roll. The menu seemed to be split into South East Asian dishes focusing on Vietnam and Thailand or pure French benchmarks such as parfait, tartare and terrine. Yet as you would expect from a modern Australian menu there was Asian produce mixed through the European stalwarts; so oysters served with mirin and pomelo, or ginger in our coleslaw makes perfect sense, to us.
What didn't make perfect sense to me was the powerful flavours of Asia served at the same time as delicate French classics; my MacLeay Valley rabbit cassoulet was absolutely swamped on the taste front, by the in-your-face aromats of mussels stir fried with rice wine, chinese sausage and chilli. Likewise our steak tartare seemed under seasoned (perhaps it was) in comparison to the 'Quail Delight' flavour bombs or the spanner crab, galangal, chilli and lime betel leaves.
Perhaps these are just opening wobbles, we did dine just 8 days into what I no doubt predict will be a very successful business, but next time I will definitely be more careful about asking when my dishes will be served.
A high point of our evening was the amazing service. Mykal -who's face I know from MoVida and his partner Kate were absolutely glowing with pride in their first venue. Our waiter was friendly and had that perfect knack of being there just at the right time (though she had no idea of what the cheese selection was that night - perhaps that's a good indicator of the overriding importance put on the Asian dishes, especially since another person explained the use of the paddy herb with the precision of a biologist).
No doubt with chef partner Adam D'Sylva in the kitchen Asian dishes will be a focus, I just hope to see some balance across the broad range of flavours, tweaks are inevitable in a new restaurant and I am excited about my next visit, some of my most memorable European food experiences have happened in Asia, from artistic artichokes in Dalat to exquisitely matured Epoisses in Hong Kong and my favourite fusion on all, the banh mi. I hope to continue this traditional now at home, in Melbourne.
Welcome Coda.
Thursday, June 4, 2009
The Deanery, Melbourne
Still in catchup mode, I started this last week before my weekend in NZ...
Tonight I headed out for dinner with a girlfriend, we had no real plans but a short list of possibilities. It was too early for our first choice, Coda (due to open properly next week; soft opening from tomorrow) so The Deanery, Robin Wickens new-ish haunt, it was.
So yes, I wasn't in the head space for it but its certainly didn't win me over; food, service, wine, ambiance or value.
I've drank at The Deanery many times and even had a few bar snacks over the years but have never felt inclined to eat there. It feels like a bar and to be honest I guess they know that, that's why when we arrived and asked about having dinner we were advised that we would be "more comfortable" upstairs.
The night rolls on from here. The food is fine; fancy but fine. The menu is impossible to decipher (and that's rich coming from me) and the dishes we receive though interesting are far from what we could possibly image - maybe that's the point? (My thoughts and pictures are on twitter, here, here, here and here)
Well I guess the ex-Interlude customers (read: older, richer, stuffier, conservative) would like this but from a glance around the empty dining room I guess that's all it will impress, and hey didn't Interlude go out of business? Either we don't get him or he doesn't get us but Robin Wickens food seems more than a little out of touch with the current hospitality climate.
Without nagging on any further, I feel I must mention the service... just strange...
Stiff, a bit pompous ("so, no entree for you?", "just a glass?") and plain unthoughtful. A silly mess with our credit card payments with three enquiries from different waiters and a forgotten scarf left in the center of our table as we sipped digestives in the bar (we were informed of the scarf, by a fellow diner and strangly not the waiter that must have moved it there). I'm not sure what it was all about but I am uncertain who was in charge of the dining room that night and I guess that's my answer.
Tonight I headed out for dinner with a girlfriend, we had no real plans but a short list of possibilities. It was too early for our first choice, Coda (due to open properly next week; soft opening from tomorrow) so The Deanery, Robin Wickens new-ish haunt, it was.
So yes, I wasn't in the head space for it but its certainly didn't win me over; food, service, wine, ambiance or value.
I've drank at The Deanery many times and even had a few bar snacks over the years but have never felt inclined to eat there. It feels like a bar and to be honest I guess they know that, that's why when we arrived and asked about having dinner we were advised that we would be "more comfortable" upstairs.
So we are lead upstairs, around a corner to a spot-lit, double set table. We realise that yes, the bar space was definitely more of what we had in mind, yet we are now here and at the mercy of an assortment of waiters. House made bread arrives, oh no this just isn't what I had in mind at all.
If I wanted flavoured bread, I'd go to Bakers Delight...
The night rolls on from here. The food is fine; fancy but fine. The menu is impossible to decipher (and that's rich coming from me) and the dishes we receive though interesting are far from what we could possibly image - maybe that's the point? (My thoughts and pictures are on twitter, here, here, here and here)
Well I guess the ex-Interlude customers (read: older, richer, stuffier, conservative) would like this but from a glance around the empty dining room I guess that's all it will impress, and hey didn't Interlude go out of business? Either we don't get him or he doesn't get us but Robin Wickens food seems more than a little out of touch with the current hospitality climate.
Without nagging on any further, I feel I must mention the service... just strange...
Stiff, a bit pompous ("so, no entree for you?", "just a glass?") and plain unthoughtful. A silly mess with our credit card payments with three enquiries from different waiters and a forgotten scarf left in the center of our table as we sipped digestives in the bar (we were informed of the scarf, by a fellow diner and strangly not the waiter that must have moved it there). I'm not sure what it was all about but I am uncertain who was in charge of the dining room that night and I guess that's my answer.
So The Deanery, what can I say.
Pop in for a drink by all means, the wines are reasonably priced but don't be lead up the stairs to the dining room, I don't think you will be "more comfortable" up there.
Oh and even the MasterChef caption writer can spell Caesar (as in the salad) why can't The Deanery? At a diningroom like this, it's all about trust, trust that everyone is as keen and passionate about the product as the diner; this just screams to me that they can't be bothered.
Sorry guys, no wonder the traditional media haven't published anything, maybe I should have followed suit in the "if you can't say something nice..." bandwagon but its just not in my nature.
Monday, May 18, 2009
Hutong, Hong Kong
Amnesty Post
Ornate flatware that has me flipping it to take down the details.
" Green asparagus coated in white sesame"; crunchy fat asparagus with sweet sesame crunch.
" Chilli spiced bamboo clams (razor clams) steeped in Chinese rose wine and chilli sauce"; stunning, powerful flavours. Absolutely the dish of the night, and beautifully presented.
"Drunken crispy pigeon, half a crispy roasted pigeon and half a pigeon poached in Chinese wine"; the most tender of meats, intriguing presentation and pigeon brains to nibble.
"Golden fried pork tendon with scallions and dried prawn roe"; texturally perfect, crunchy, chewy, gelatinous and incredibly rich. Needed half this quantity.
This will be the last of my catch-up posts but I think the best.
Hutong was on our must dine list whilst in Hong Kong in July last year; Sichuan food as good as it gets apparently. Didn't need to know anymore apart from the instruction to have a pre-dinner cocktail at Aqua on the floor above.
Ornate flatware that has me flipping it to take down the details.
" Green asparagus coated in white sesame"; crunchy fat asparagus with sweet sesame crunch.
" Chilli spiced bamboo clams (razor clams) steeped in Chinese rose wine and chilli sauce"; stunning, powerful flavours. Absolutely the dish of the night, and beautifully presented.
"Drunken crispy pigeon, half a crispy roasted pigeon and half a pigeon poached in Chinese wine"; the most tender of meats, intriguing presentation and pigeon brains to nibble."Golden fried pork tendon with scallions and dried prawn roe"; texturally perfect, crunchy, chewy, gelatinous and incredibly rich. Needed half this quantity. "'Red Lantern' crispy soft shell crabs with Sichuan red peppers"; this dish reminded me of a child's play pen with thousands of balls... find the crab in the chillis.
Even with removing the crabs from the pit of dried chillis, this dish was so hot we laughed and cried at the same time. Perfectly crispy and seasoned well, just not as interesting to the palate as to the eye.
Even with removing the crabs from the pit of dried chillis, this dish was so hot we laughed and cried at the same time. Perfectly crispy and seasoned well, just not as interesting to the palate as to the eye.Dessert because we felt obligated but wish we didn't bother. "Coconut three ways(I think)"; bland dull, no passion.
Hutong offered some amazing food, presented in a beautiful manner in stunning surrounds. The service, as with all of our experiences in HK (except the 'western style' service at L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon), was shaky at best. Too many waiters, too many strange repetitive conversations, too often.
The experience at Hutong, sets a new benchmark in my mind of how stunning Chinese food can be, elapsing every experience I have of this style of food, Flowerdrum included.
Go for the food and views, and the stunning food porn images you can take with the spot-lighted tables!
Sunday, April 12, 2009
France or Greece? Or is it Australia?
Amnesty Week Post -written 14th January 2009
Lets stop and smell the Australian culinary 'roses' for a moment...
And reflect on how lucky we are in Melbourne, and Australia, in general.
We have richly diverse cultural backgrounds that has given us an incredible choice of dining options, something that I never give much thought to until I am overseas on holiday and eating the same food everyday.
I do like to eat like a local on holiday, so when in France it's the quaint bistros that get my patronage, in Vietnam the brightly flavoured salads are frequent features, in Hong Kong it was roast goose and in Macau the 'portuguese' custard tarts.
But in Melbourne it could be anything, and that's what must be so exciting and confusing for visitors, there is not one strong theme that I'd call Melbourne or Australian food.
As you may know, if you have read here before, I'm not the type to mince my words and get confused about food, Australian food does have a style of its own, its just that until you have spent some time here, it's kind of hard to get your head around.
I was trying to explain this to some English tourists on the weekend, "Australian food is about freshness; European in the originating idea but with Asian flavour twists and ingredients. We still love comfort style food from the 'motherland' but will tweak it", (who hasn't eaten curried tuna mornay served with a side of fried rice from the local Chinese takeaway - ok in the 90's maybe - but now you are getting the drift).
The point I am making is that our food, the stuff we cook at home is varied, and we are not afraid to mix tradition with modern and throw caution into the wind but the really beautiful thing is that you can also go the other way. You can experience pure examples of what it is like dining in another country without travelling there, which is what I have done recently at Hellenic Republic and France Soir.
Not quite Greece; Hellenic Republic, Brunswick East
I'd had a glimpse of the food late last year and have been killing to get in and try George Calambaris' agapi packed food.
Firstly a warning, Hellenic Republic is frantically busy, but for all you people that like to plan your meals you can book (of which I am incredibly surprised at considering the prices), so I would advise this, unless you are prepared to smile and hope for the best, as a walk in.
The menu is intimidatingly huge, with more than 20 'piata' small plates plus a selection of cheeses and meats. Then there is also more than a dozen grill options such as meats, fish, shellfish and vegetables, some composed dishes such as Moussaka and then also desserts.
Despite this the dishes are very clear about what they are, citing a Greek name and then a English descriptor but for me, ita ll a bit too much like hard work, sifting through, tossing up this combo with that, oh but what if I forgot about this, is it balanced, and most importantly will I have dish envy as they fly past to other tables.
So. We settled on the first of the 'trapezi' menus, a set menu offering a selection from the menu. Some vegetables, dip, seafood and meat with fruit for dessert. The second menu option also included a dessert course.
I knew the food looked good, I could trust it would taste good, yet the value question was the one I wasn't sure about. Well rest assured we walked out two hours later stuffed to the gills; feed watered and relaxed with loud but fun Greek music.
Just like a Greek holiday, yet not nearly as far (well it is a fair way to Brunswick East from St Kilda!)
Not quite France; France Soir, South Yarra
I think I have dined in less interesting bistros in France, France Soir is one of those places that just has me hopping. Moving between the tables as we sit I resist the strange urge to say "merci", yet I can't resist a glass of chilled Lillet Blanc.
Glancing across the menu I don't really need to look as I already know what I will see, typical, down the line classic french bistro fair -just what the doctor ordered! With what has to be Melbourne's cheapest shucked to order oysters, if they are in season I can't go past them, if not -like on my recent visit- the lambs brains or steak tartare become contenders. Even maybe the salade Nicoise.
Conversation is always lean upon arrival at France Soir, as the encyclopedic wine list requires a heavy time investment from PDC but that's fine as I sit back and watch the comings and goings of the humming dining room.
The service is always a bit of a game for me, its just not the same at France Soir if our waiter is not at least a little bit detached from us; somewhat charming, perhaps flirtatious, a little more distracted and gossipy with the other waiters. I nearly expect to see them smoking in the bar as I experienced in Lyon a few years back. Never too busy for a cigarette or a gossip with the other waiters.
Don't let the GFC hold back your foodie travel plans, both of these restaurants offer amazing value and an experience you would have to otherwise travel the globe for.
Lucky us huh!
Lets stop and smell the Australian culinary 'roses' for a moment...
And reflect on how lucky we are in Melbourne, and Australia, in general.
We have richly diverse cultural backgrounds that has given us an incredible choice of dining options, something that I never give much thought to until I am overseas on holiday and eating the same food everyday.
I do like to eat like a local on holiday, so when in France it's the quaint bistros that get my patronage, in Vietnam the brightly flavoured salads are frequent features, in Hong Kong it was roast goose and in Macau the 'portuguese' custard tarts.
But in Melbourne it could be anything, and that's what must be so exciting and confusing for visitors, there is not one strong theme that I'd call Melbourne or Australian food.
As you may know, if you have read here before, I'm not the type to mince my words and get confused about food, Australian food does have a style of its own, its just that until you have spent some time here, it's kind of hard to get your head around.
I was trying to explain this to some English tourists on the weekend, "Australian food is about freshness; European in the originating idea but with Asian flavour twists and ingredients. We still love comfort style food from the 'motherland' but will tweak it", (who hasn't eaten curried tuna mornay served with a side of fried rice from the local Chinese takeaway - ok in the 90's maybe - but now you are getting the drift).
The point I am making is that our food, the stuff we cook at home is varied, and we are not afraid to mix tradition with modern and throw caution into the wind but the really beautiful thing is that you can also go the other way. You can experience pure examples of what it is like dining in another country without travelling there, which is what I have done recently at Hellenic Republic and France Soir.
Not quite Greece; Hellenic Republic, Brunswick East
I'd had a glimpse of the food late last year and have been killing to get in and try George Calambaris' agapi packed food.
Firstly a warning, Hellenic Republic is frantically busy, but for all you people that like to plan your meals you can book (of which I am incredibly surprised at considering the prices), so I would advise this, unless you are prepared to smile and hope for the best, as a walk in.
The menu is intimidatingly huge, with more than 20 'piata' small plates plus a selection of cheeses and meats. Then there is also more than a dozen grill options such as meats, fish, shellfish and vegetables, some composed dishes such as Moussaka and then also desserts.
Despite this the dishes are very clear about what they are, citing a Greek name and then a English descriptor but for me, ita ll a bit too much like hard work, sifting through, tossing up this combo with that, oh but what if I forgot about this, is it balanced, and most importantly will I have dish envy as they fly past to other tables.
So. We settled on the first of the 'trapezi' menus, a set menu offering a selection from the menu. Some vegetables, dip, seafood and meat with fruit for dessert. The second menu option also included a dessert course.
I knew the food looked good, I could trust it would taste good, yet the value question was the one I wasn't sure about. Well rest assured we walked out two hours later stuffed to the gills; feed watered and relaxed with loud but fun Greek music.
Just like a Greek holiday, yet not nearly as far (well it is a fair way to Brunswick East from St Kilda!)
Not quite France; France Soir, South Yarra
I think I have dined in less interesting bistros in France, France Soir is one of those places that just has me hopping. Moving between the tables as we sit I resist the strange urge to say "merci", yet I can't resist a glass of chilled Lillet Blanc.
Glancing across the menu I don't really need to look as I already know what I will see, typical, down the line classic french bistro fair -just what the doctor ordered! With what has to be Melbourne's cheapest shucked to order oysters, if they are in season I can't go past them, if not -like on my recent visit- the lambs brains or steak tartare become contenders. Even maybe the salade Nicoise.
Conversation is always lean upon arrival at France Soir, as the encyclopedic wine list requires a heavy time investment from PDC but that's fine as I sit back and watch the comings and goings of the humming dining room.
The service is always a bit of a game for me, its just not the same at France Soir if our waiter is not at least a little bit detached from us; somewhat charming, perhaps flirtatious, a little more distracted and gossipy with the other waiters. I nearly expect to see them smoking in the bar as I experienced in Lyon a few years back. Never too busy for a cigarette or a gossip with the other waiters.
Don't let the GFC hold back your foodie travel plans, both of these restaurants offer amazing value and an experience you would have to otherwise travel the globe for.
Lucky us huh!
Friday, January 30, 2009
Macarons at Noisette
If you have the patience of a saint these macarons from Noisette, could be the best available retail in Melbourne.You see, the problem is that a macaron needs time after being filled (I can't remember the time 'rule') but enough time for the filling to meet with the shell and they become one. The outer shell is the gentle crunch and then the base of the little disk is moistened by the filling, soft and a little texturally chewy, almost.
I've had some devastating good macarons at Laduree in Paris and also in Melbourne at the first food bloggers banquet, courtesy of Duncan. And these were fairly close, if only I could wait until the day after I brought them, as they were too 'fresh'.
A great little piece of Paris in Port Melbourne; well priced breads, great small petit four style sweets and fantastic macarons - for patient people only.
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
Roast goose in Hong Kong
A friend is heading off to Hong Kong soon and I was ranting wax-lyrical about of food places that must be visited.
The friend politely retorted but "I didn't read about this on your blog..., or did I miss it?" Well I was put in my place, yes, caught out in my own blog back log.
So in an effort to validate my recommendations - and thinking about this I really should post a list of Paris and Barcelona, so I don't have to keep writing it out - please may I share with you roast goose in Hong Kong.
Texturally the flesh was quite firm with glossy lacquered skin on top of a little layer of viscous fat. The exciting thing about roast goose in comparison to roast duck, is that you get so much more breast meat on the larger bird, a definite thick fillet of flesh between the skin and rib cage.
I've eaten goose many times before but cooked in a French method, so I was not surprised at the coarseness but increased flavour of the meat, but did think that the skin could have been a little more blistered and crispy.
Next time in Hong Kong, I'd perhaps seek out a less touristy goose destination but was none the less, pleased to be able to squeeze this experience into our trip. I should also note that the staff worked the space like clockwork, friendly and professional and extremely unhindered by our request to mind a mountain of luggage while we ate. Thank you!
Next backdated post is the best cheese of my life, at Atelier Joel Robuchon. Oh, I can just taste it now!
And perhaps even my yum cha round up, three days, three experiences and not even close to my benchmark experience 3 years ago... in Vietnam.
The friend politely retorted but "I didn't read about this on your blog..., or did I miss it?" Well I was put in my place, yes, caught out in my own blog back log.
So in an effort to validate my recommendations - and thinking about this I really should post a list of Paris and Barcelona, so I don't have to keep writing it out - please may I share with you roast goose in Hong Kong.
We made a fleeting visit to Yung Kee in Central just before we jumped a ferry to Macau. It was meant to be a more relaxed affair with the opportunity to savour more of their menu over an extended meal but courtesy of Qantas we drank free champagne instead.
Yung Kee is a bustling multi-level building in the expats section of Hong Kong, lots of very steep hills and roads, but lots of spots to stop in for a drink and snack to refuel.
We were served these century eggs and pickled ginger as a complementary appetiser, a generous offering, that no doubt many tourists would waste.
The yolk was softer and I had seen in century eggs before and had a green tinge to the charcoal grey colour. They may look scary but the firm jelly texture and the thick, rich, creamy yolk are just to die for. The ginger perfectly cuts this richness, if its all a bit too much.
I love the idea of the techniques involved in this... image discovering it for the first time, what a game person it was to try eating it! But I guess there are lot of foods like that, the percebes I ate in Spain a couple of years back were hilarious, especially when you read through the comments of the post... we ate some bits we shouldn't have.
But I am getting off track, we were here for the roast goose and here it is.
Texturally the flesh was quite firm with glossy lacquered skin on top of a little layer of viscous fat. The exciting thing about roast goose in comparison to roast duck, is that you get so much more breast meat on the larger bird, a definite thick fillet of flesh between the skin and rib cage.I've eaten goose many times before but cooked in a French method, so I was not surprised at the coarseness but increased flavour of the meat, but did think that the skin could have been a little more blistered and crispy.
Next time in Hong Kong, I'd perhaps seek out a less touristy goose destination but was none the less, pleased to be able to squeeze this experience into our trip. I should also note that the staff worked the space like clockwork, friendly and professional and extremely unhindered by our request to mind a mountain of luggage while we ate. Thank you!Next backdated post is the best cheese of my life, at Atelier Joel Robuchon. Oh, I can just taste it now!
And perhaps even my yum cha round up, three days, three experiences and not even close to my benchmark experience 3 years ago... in Vietnam.
Friday, December 19, 2008
2009, the year of more voices
2008 was (I should be writing is, but it feels so over already) an exciting year for me and Eating with Jack. We have grown together and I have have never been prouder.
There are some interesting projects on the horizon for my little addictive hobby that I hope to be able to share soon, but in a larger Melbourne sense this coming year will be quite interesting.
As no doubt you have read across a multiple of Melbourne bloggers, that the editors of The Age Good Food Guide and writers and reviewers for The Age, in Epicure and other sections have resigned to move to The Australian newspaper.
This strikes me as a huge coup for The Australian, and it must be a pretty sweet deal for John and Necia. But the thing that I think is the sweetest, is the opening and changes to happen in our food reading opportunities and what that will mean for food bloggers, and in fact all Melbourne foodies.
I can only assume that the Australian is trying to secure a little of the Melbourne food reading public, and I guess a restaurant review book must be part of the deal (why would you take new roles, lesser than your current deal?).
Obviously, The Age will replace these writers and readers will get to know new reviewers and/or go searching at The Australian for something more familiar or even perhaps look around for other voices - this is where bloggers come into it.
Google is the tool of choice now days for finding anything online and as we all know blogs are pretty powerful when compared to other websites. I anticipate the shakeup will mean a broader readership as people readjust, search for identifiable and trusted food writers, blogs no doubt will benefit.
So keep your fingers warm, and keyboard clicking away, an opportunity to attract a new group of eager readers awaits.
As for Ed's speculation about Jill and Terry, oh please bring them back to us (they were in town recently 'visiting Mum'), but how can we in little old Melbourne town compete with what seems like the ultimate international lifestyle in London?
Matt Preston, apparently no longer with the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, seems like a likely person to step up?
In other food news, I hear that "every chef in Australia" has applied for roles with Masterchef Australia -presumably as judges - shortlists are currently down to the last handful, so who will it be? Quietly I am pleased that the industry is supporting this program and lending it a good measure of credibility, to what seems like an adjusted format from the UK series.
So bring on the shake up, I'm looking forward to what eventuates and seeing a new round of Melbourne food writers and reviews on our pages and computer screens.
There are some interesting projects on the horizon for my little addictive hobby that I hope to be able to share soon, but in a larger Melbourne sense this coming year will be quite interesting.
As no doubt you have read across a multiple of Melbourne bloggers, that the editors of The Age Good Food Guide and writers and reviewers for The Age, in Epicure and other sections have resigned to move to The Australian newspaper.
This strikes me as a huge coup for The Australian, and it must be a pretty sweet deal for John and Necia. But the thing that I think is the sweetest, is the opening and changes to happen in our food reading opportunities and what that will mean for food bloggers, and in fact all Melbourne foodies.
I can only assume that the Australian is trying to secure a little of the Melbourne food reading public, and I guess a restaurant review book must be part of the deal (why would you take new roles, lesser than your current deal?).
Obviously, The Age will replace these writers and readers will get to know new reviewers and/or go searching at The Australian for something more familiar or even perhaps look around for other voices - this is where bloggers come into it.
Google is the tool of choice now days for finding anything online and as we all know blogs are pretty powerful when compared to other websites. I anticipate the shakeup will mean a broader readership as people readjust, search for identifiable and trusted food writers, blogs no doubt will benefit.
So keep your fingers warm, and keyboard clicking away, an opportunity to attract a new group of eager readers awaits.
As for Ed's speculation about Jill and Terry, oh please bring them back to us (they were in town recently 'visiting Mum'), but how can we in little old Melbourne town compete with what seems like the ultimate international lifestyle in London?
Matt Preston, apparently no longer with the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, seems like a likely person to step up?
In other food news, I hear that "every chef in Australia" has applied for roles with Masterchef Australia -presumably as judges - shortlists are currently down to the last handful, so who will it be? Quietly I am pleased that the industry is supporting this program and lending it a good measure of credibility, to what seems like an adjusted format from the UK series.
So bring on the shake up, I'm looking forward to what eventuates and seeing a new round of Melbourne food writers and reviews on our pages and computer screens.
Saturday, November 15, 2008
Ugly furniture seals fate?
Has China Tea House on Chapel St, South Yarra closed down already?
It's been open since May and scared me off because of its hideous furniture and fit out, and a menu that features Thai and pan Asian flavours with a Cantonese focus - ie yum cha daily. Well not today anyway...
I have been curious about this place after reading the glowing reviews here, here and here. I was terribly tempted to twist PDCs arm and head there for some dumpling action tomorrow but unfortunately it was closed lunch today and again dinner tonight and they are not answering the phone, not very positive signs for a trading restaurant.
Perhaps that furniture has scared off more people than just me? Have you dined there? Does an awful fit out disturb you as much as a good one inspires me?
It's been open since May and scared me off because of its hideous furniture and fit out, and a menu that features Thai and pan Asian flavours with a Cantonese focus - ie yum cha daily. Well not today anyway...
I have been curious about this place after reading the glowing reviews here, here and here. I was terribly tempted to twist PDCs arm and head there for some dumpling action tomorrow but unfortunately it was closed lunch today and again dinner tonight and they are not answering the phone, not very positive signs for a trading restaurant.
Perhaps that furniture has scared off more people than just me? Have you dined there? Does an awful fit out disturb you as much as a good one inspires me?
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Rumi, Brunswick East
It's pretty obvious from just glancing over these pages that I'm a bit of a food freak, or nerd as I like to say.
I love it all; eating it, talking about it, playing with it and writing about it but one foodie area that I know I need to improve in, is my understanding of Middle Eastern food.
Lets just say, that I have a growing appreciation, for appreciating it more.
I've tried the usual suspects, Abla's et al, yet find the lack clarity in each flavour challenging - yes, I know that's the point - the flavours are actually combinations of flavours; spices, herbs and eclectic ingredients. It's a mine field of foreign-ness that can be intimidating, unless you grew up with it. I didn't, it was grilled lamb chops, peas and mash for me.
I love the subtle hints of these flavours in modern Melbourne food - Greg Malouf can take full credit for his influence on a whole generation of chefs - yet to understand the food better it's not just a flirt with the flavours that I need, it's a full on affair with the cuisine... but perhaps within an accessible modern package!
Here are a few of these modern Middle Eastern dining rooms in Melbourne. I liked Mama Ganoush, I'm keen to try Maha and I am awaiting Momo's reopening, but the answer right now is Rumi.
Situated on Lygon St, a tram ride north of the cheap Italian joints that the tourists frequent, Rumi is in a simple corner shop front, that just hums from opening time at 6pm. You can tell that you are in on a good thing when a place is this busy from the moment it opens. I feel like I have stumbled on a Middle Eastern version of Spice I am.
The room is basic, quite a few tables packed tetrus style into the space, but the friendly professionalism of the staff make you forget that you could easy steal a meatball from the table next door. An perhaps you should... the dishes are intended to share after all!
We begin by asking a few menu questions, this then leads into our waiter ordering for us, the trust was built and we feel in good hands, our only request was that the Persian roast goat be included and I'm glad we did, it was fabulous.
First was the sigara boregi; perfect cigar shaped rolls of crunchy pastry filled with a combination of haloumi, feta and kasseri cheeses. Who doesn't like warm cheese and pastry?
Next it was some 'baharat' spice dusted school prawns that were fried whole until crispy, these were served with an avocado, tahini and lemon dip. The prawns were well cooked and lightly seasoned, yet perhaps the idea of dipping them in avocado was a little strange to me. Avocado is definitely one of those fruits that are very wrong hot, but the rich creaminess was a great match to the textured, sweet prawns.
The prawns were served at the same time as a very seasonal little salad of baby beetroots, broadbeans and labne garnished with tarragon and mint. Fresh, fantastic flavours.
Then we had our way, the Persian goat. A few random cuts; part of a rack, some rounds of leg shank, a little bit of shoulder. All cooked to a sticky, pull apart and suck the bones perfection. Served with a side pot of spiced salt, essentially sea salt flakes with aromatic sweet spices of cinnamon, cardamom and perhaps some fennel seed. I could eat this dish everyday for a month and not tire of it, definitely on a must try list should you go.
To balance it all off there was some pilaf rice and a sweet and sour dressed cos leaf salad.
Unfortunately the desserts are forgettable and appear to be an after thought, so don't bother further than a couple of pieces of Turkish delight and perhaps a strong and sweet Turkish coffee.
The service at Rumi nearly stole the show over the food; friendly, accommodating, and happy to explain as much as possible. They are no doubt, use to people like me being unfamiliar with the cuisine style and have found a niche in sharing the experience with a wide variety of diners.
Rumi is a place that I'd recommend; the food is exciting and fresh in flavours, the service is smart and passionate, the wine list is simple, (but with BYO at $10 you can bring something nice from home) and the room absolutely buzzes with happy diners taking advantage of a reasonably inexpensive meal that educates the palate, and the mind.
Rumi
132 Lygon St
Brunswich East
ph: 93888255
I love it all; eating it, talking about it, playing with it and writing about it but one foodie area that I know I need to improve in, is my understanding of Middle Eastern food.
Lets just say, that I have a growing appreciation, for appreciating it more.
I've tried the usual suspects, Abla's et al, yet find the lack clarity in each flavour challenging - yes, I know that's the point - the flavours are actually combinations of flavours; spices, herbs and eclectic ingredients. It's a mine field of foreign-ness that can be intimidating, unless you grew up with it. I didn't, it was grilled lamb chops, peas and mash for me.
I love the subtle hints of these flavours in modern Melbourne food - Greg Malouf can take full credit for his influence on a whole generation of chefs - yet to understand the food better it's not just a flirt with the flavours that I need, it's a full on affair with the cuisine... but perhaps within an accessible modern package!
Here are a few of these modern Middle Eastern dining rooms in Melbourne. I liked Mama Ganoush, I'm keen to try Maha and I am awaiting Momo's reopening, but the answer right now is Rumi.
Situated on Lygon St, a tram ride north of the cheap Italian joints that the tourists frequent, Rumi is in a simple corner shop front, that just hums from opening time at 6pm. You can tell that you are in on a good thing when a place is this busy from the moment it opens. I feel like I have stumbled on a Middle Eastern version of Spice I am.
The room is basic, quite a few tables packed tetrus style into the space, but the friendly professionalism of the staff make you forget that you could easy steal a meatball from the table next door. An perhaps you should... the dishes are intended to share after all!
We begin by asking a few menu questions, this then leads into our waiter ordering for us, the trust was built and we feel in good hands, our only request was that the Persian roast goat be included and I'm glad we did, it was fabulous.
First was the sigara boregi; perfect cigar shaped rolls of crunchy pastry filled with a combination of haloumi, feta and kasseri cheeses. Who doesn't like warm cheese and pastry?
Next it was some 'baharat' spice dusted school prawns that were fried whole until crispy, these were served with an avocado, tahini and lemon dip. The prawns were well cooked and lightly seasoned, yet perhaps the idea of dipping them in avocado was a little strange to me. Avocado is definitely one of those fruits that are very wrong hot, but the rich creaminess was a great match to the textured, sweet prawns.
The prawns were served at the same time as a very seasonal little salad of baby beetroots, broadbeans and labne garnished with tarragon and mint. Fresh, fantastic flavours.
Then we had our way, the Persian goat. A few random cuts; part of a rack, some rounds of leg shank, a little bit of shoulder. All cooked to a sticky, pull apart and suck the bones perfection. Served with a side pot of spiced salt, essentially sea salt flakes with aromatic sweet spices of cinnamon, cardamom and perhaps some fennel seed. I could eat this dish everyday for a month and not tire of it, definitely on a must try list should you go.
To balance it all off there was some pilaf rice and a sweet and sour dressed cos leaf salad.
Unfortunately the desserts are forgettable and appear to be an after thought, so don't bother further than a couple of pieces of Turkish delight and perhaps a strong and sweet Turkish coffee.
The service at Rumi nearly stole the show over the food; friendly, accommodating, and happy to explain as much as possible. They are no doubt, use to people like me being unfamiliar with the cuisine style and have found a niche in sharing the experience with a wide variety of diners.
Rumi is a place that I'd recommend; the food is exciting and fresh in flavours, the service is smart and passionate, the wine list is simple, (but with BYO at $10 you can bring something nice from home) and the room absolutely buzzes with happy diners taking advantage of a reasonably inexpensive meal that educates the palate, and the mind.
Rumi
132 Lygon St
Brunswich East
ph: 93888255
Monday, August 25, 2008
Wow! A night of surprises at The Good Food Guide Awards
Well, PDC and I sit here with proud smiles as I report on the excitement of The Age Good Food Guide Awards.
A few new awards and a couple of shocks...
2009 Awards
Restaurant of the Year - Attica (a fantastic result, well done!)
Best New Restaurant - Bistro Guillaume
Chef of the Year - Frank Camorra, MoVida
Young Chef of the Year - (two winners this year) Justin Wise, The Press Club and Christopher Donnellan, The Lake House
Service Excellence Award - Martin Fairhurst, The Lake House
Professional Excellence Award - Will Studd, -Cheese Campaigner (nice title!)
Outstanding Achievement Award - Con Christopoulos
Dish of the Year - Smoked trout broth, Attica (not too far removed from the pork broth that I loved there)
Country Restaurant of the Year - Royal Mail Hotel, Dunkeld
**Best New Country Restaurant - Tea Rooms of Yarck
**Winery Restaurant of the Year - Giant Steps (in the Yarra Valley)
Wine List of the Year - Circa, the Prince (again, congrats!)
Best Short Wine List - Ten Minutes by Tractor
**Bacchus (Don Levy Fitzpatrick) Award - Bar Lourinha
Website of the Year - Three, One, Two
Wine Service Award - Rocco Esposito, Wardens in Beechworh
**Interior Design - Giuseppe, Arnaldo and Sons (my friend was right, it is really amazing)
2008 Multiple hats of interest…
Three Hats
Jacques Reymond and Vue de Monde is back sharing the top pinnacle
Two Hats
Verge (back up again) MoVida (up from '07), Bistro Guillaume (a new entrant from across the boarder), Royal Mail Hotel (country section)
Up and Down
The Press Club - fallen a little from two hats, Chef and New Restaurant of the year in '08 to one hat... ouch
Well, I heard whispers that it was all about demotions this year, these places lost their only hat -
The Argo, Da Noi (nice dig!), Delizia Cucina, Fenix (watch for Ray next year), France Soir (ouch!), The Graham, Hotel Lincoin, Idea..., Maisonette, Maris, Middle Brighton Baths, Mirka (I told you it wasn't all that), Punch Lane (a sad loss), Shiranui
Controversy and surprises…
Taxi Dining room - did I miss it or did they lose two hats?? :O
Becco - 'The Boys' have had it good for a while, and now the playing field is levelled ;)
France Soir - hatless after such a long service to Melbourne
**New awards this year
Thoughts on the results??? Please join in...
12.30am Opps correction... Sorry to the Taxi team, as corrected by Niki, Taxi still has their two hats. Perhaps it was Shaun Micallefs speed to announce the winners or the bottle of Tuscan red in front of me, but I missed it and their hat status remains unchanged. Cheers and sorry!! Jack
A few new awards and a couple of shocks...
2009 Awards
Restaurant of the Year - Attica (a fantastic result, well done!)
Best New Restaurant - Bistro Guillaume
Chef of the Year - Frank Camorra, MoVida
Young Chef of the Year - (two winners this year) Justin Wise, The Press Club and Christopher Donnellan, The Lake House
Service Excellence Award - Martin Fairhurst, The Lake House
Professional Excellence Award - Will Studd, -Cheese Campaigner (nice title!)
Outstanding Achievement Award - Con Christopoulos
Dish of the Year - Smoked trout broth, Attica (not too far removed from the pork broth that I loved there)
Country Restaurant of the Year - Royal Mail Hotel, Dunkeld
**Best New Country Restaurant - Tea Rooms of Yarck
**Winery Restaurant of the Year - Giant Steps (in the Yarra Valley)
Wine List of the Year - Circa, the Prince (again, congrats!)
Best Short Wine List - Ten Minutes by Tractor
**Bacchus (Don Levy Fitzpatrick) Award - Bar Lourinha
Website of the Year - Three, One, Two
Wine Service Award - Rocco Esposito, Wardens in Beechworh
**Interior Design - Giuseppe, Arnaldo and Sons (my friend was right, it is really amazing)
2008 Multiple hats of interest…
Three Hats
Jacques Reymond and Vue de Monde is back sharing the top pinnacle
Two Hats
Verge (back up again) MoVida (up from '07), Bistro Guillaume (a new entrant from across the boarder), Royal Mail Hotel (country section)
Up and Down
The Press Club - fallen a little from two hats, Chef and New Restaurant of the year in '08 to one hat... ouch
Well, I heard whispers that it was all about demotions this year, these places lost their only hat -
The Argo, Da Noi (nice dig!), Delizia Cucina, Fenix (watch for Ray next year), France Soir (ouch!), The Graham, Hotel Lincoin, Idea..., Maisonette, Maris, Middle Brighton Baths, Mirka (I told you it wasn't all that), Punch Lane (a sad loss), Shiranui
Controversy and surprises…
Taxi Dining room - did I miss it or did they lose two hats?? :O
Becco - 'The Boys' have had it good for a while, and now the playing field is levelled ;)
France Soir - hatless after such a long service to Melbourne
**New awards this year
Thoughts on the results??? Please join in...
12.30am Opps correction... Sorry to the Taxi team, as corrected by Niki, Taxi still has their two hats. Perhaps it was Shaun Micallefs speed to announce the winners or the bottle of Tuscan red in front of me, but I missed it and their hat status remains unchanged. Cheers and sorry!! Jack
Thursday, July 17, 2008
The Amazing Race detours in Ho Chi Minh – Vietnam
In the style of ‘The Amazing Race’ we clamber through the sticky airport; international arrivals then to the domestic terminal and search the tv screen boards for the next flights to Phu Quoc or Nha Trang.
Having just missed the last flight to the island of Phu Quoc the decision is made, Nha Trang here we come… yet we have nearly three hours to kill until the first possible standby seats may be available. So we take, as the say on the Amazing Race ‘A Detour’, otherwise know as a stopover lunch in Ho Chi Mihn city.
Dumping the bags in storage at the terminal, and with a recommendation from an American sounding Vietnamese girl as she coded our bags, we jumped in a cab and head towards the Reunification Palace and what was promised to us as a local lunch spot “Not for tourists”, was the deal, “I eat there many times, it’s great”. Sold.
We are off, on the scooter and car horn filled streets, zig-zagging our way towards lunch, 25 minutes and a few grey hairs later we are standing out the front of an old colonial style house with a bamboo garden around the outside and what later turns out to be the prep kitchens for a large menu of simple Vietnamese dishes. Seated inside at a large thick wooden table I am excited, the food shooting past looks amazing – fresh, vibrant food – and lots of locals tucking in. Luckily the waiters are happy to play along and be patient with our guide book language skills.
Three dishes and a couple of Saigon Specials later we are satisfied, the suggestion has been fantastic. A salad of lotus stems with prawns and pork was garnished with prawn cracker spoons and had a side dish of a caramel, sticky chilli dressing. Delicious.
Next was a DIY number; some spiced prawn mince around sugar cane sticks with a plate of rice paper, some salad and herb leaves and slices of cucumber, star fruit and little squares of soft vermicelli noodles. A little bit of everything, a snug wrap and a dip into the nuoc cham dressing makes a bright fun dish, that PDC and I have instantly added to our barbeque share food repertoire .
The last dish was Banh Xeo; a favourite from the markets in Nha Trang that we experienced 3 years ago. A crispy pancake filled with meat and seafood, bamboo shoots and herbs, served folded with more fresh herbs and salad leaves and another dressing featuring chilli, fish sauce lime and sugar.
Having just missed the last flight to the island of Phu Quoc the decision is made, Nha Trang here we come… yet we have nearly three hours to kill until the first possible standby seats may be available. So we take, as the say on the Amazing Race ‘A Detour’, otherwise know as a stopover lunch in Ho Chi Mihn city.
Dumping the bags in storage at the terminal, and with a recommendation from an American sounding Vietnamese girl as she coded our bags, we jumped in a cab and head towards the Reunification Palace and what was promised to us as a local lunch spot “Not for tourists”, was the deal, “I eat there many times, it’s great”. Sold.
We are off, on the scooter and car horn filled streets, zig-zagging our way towards lunch, 25 minutes and a few grey hairs later we are standing out the front of an old colonial style house with a bamboo garden around the outside and what later turns out to be the prep kitchens for a large menu of simple Vietnamese dishes. Seated inside at a large thick wooden table I am excited, the food shooting past looks amazing – fresh, vibrant food – and lots of locals tucking in. Luckily the waiters are happy to play along and be patient with our guide book language skills.
Three dishes and a couple of Saigon Specials later we are satisfied, the suggestion has been fantastic. A salad of lotus stems with prawns and pork was garnished with prawn cracker spoons and had a side dish of a caramel, sticky chilli dressing. Delicious.
Next was a DIY number; some spiced prawn mince around sugar cane sticks with a plate of rice paper, some salad and herb leaves and slices of cucumber, star fruit and little squares of soft vermicelli noodles. A little bit of everything, a snug wrap and a dip into the nuoc cham dressing makes a bright fun dish, that PDC and I have instantly added to our barbeque share food repertoire .
The last dish was Banh Xeo; a favourite from the markets in Nha Trang that we experienced 3 years ago. A crispy pancake filled with meat and seafood, bamboo shoots and herbs, served folded with more fresh herbs and salad leaves and another dressing featuring chilli, fish sauce lime and sugar.
Total cost of this leg of the race
Banh Hoi Thit Heo Quay Cuon Banh Trang (DIY Rolls) 48 000 VD
Goi Ngo Sen Tom Thit (lotus stem salad) 42 000 VD
Banh Xeo (pancake) 24 000 VD
For the grand total of $12 Australian, including beers, water and tip.*
Quan an Ngon
138 Nam Khoi Nghia C3
Back out onto the street we hail a cab and head back to the airport. Mission complete, detour successful, tummies in-check and satisfied. Now to that plane to Nha Trang, and dinner to worry about.
*Out of interest, one Aussie Dollar is equal today to 15500 Vietnamese Dong.
Saturday, July 12, 2008
Cumulus Inc, Flinders Lane
A friend tempted me to join her on a quick lunch at the very newly opened Cumulus Inc. last Tuesday.
In a nut shell I loved it, yet look forward to going back for dinner when they are a little more settled in, unfortunately they are still waiting for their liquor licence, (when I enquired when they were expecting it I was told “three weeks ago”), it's all smiles for now but this is far from an ideal way to open your business.
If you must head in immediately, as I had to, try the salted cod soup served in a glass with chilled parsley foam on top. It settled like a good Guinness as the two layers became one.
The Wagyu bresaola with threads of celeriac remoulade, is also worth seeking out, but don’t miss the 12 hour roast pork. Belly meat with soft melted fat and crispy skin served with picked watercress and some slivered poached lemon rind and flesh.
The room is all about attention to detail and the gorgeous features such as an iron bar, beige tipped Thonet chairs and clog coat rack, reak smart designer. I’m looking forward to seeing the room in the evening to get the full effect of what looked like, just as well thought out, lighting.
In a nut shell I loved it, yet look forward to going back for dinner when they are a little more settled in, unfortunately they are still waiting for their liquor licence, (when I enquired when they were expecting it I was told “three weeks ago”), it's all smiles for now but this is far from an ideal way to open your business.
If you must head in immediately, as I had to, try the salted cod soup served in a glass with chilled parsley foam on top. It settled like a good Guinness as the two layers became one.
The Wagyu bresaola with threads of celeriac remoulade, is also worth seeking out, but don’t miss the 12 hour roast pork. Belly meat with soft melted fat and crispy skin served with picked watercress and some slivered poached lemon rind and flesh.
The room is all about attention to detail and the gorgeous features such as an iron bar, beige tipped Thonet chairs and clog coat rack, reak smart designer. I’m looking forward to seeing the room in the evening to get the full effect of what looked like, just as well thought out, lighting.
Monday, June 23, 2008
Yarra Valley for the weekend
We have neglected the Yarra Valley a little lately, we have been drawn down the coast to Mornington or to the south west for food adventures but not to the Yarra for too long.
Last weekend saw the drought broken, (no not really, but it was very green out there) and a trip to 'The Valley' undertaken.
One of the highlights was our first visit to Giant Steps in Healesville. The warehouse style room was amazing; a huge glass wall looking into the winery on one side and the other an open kitchen featuring pizzas and artisan baked goods. I loved the smart branding, young funky vibe and communal tables.
Last weekend saw the drought broken, (no not really, but it was very green out there) and a trip to 'The Valley' undertaken.
One of the highlights was our first visit to Giant Steps in Healesville. The warehouse style room was amazing; a huge glass wall looking into the winery on one side and the other an open kitchen featuring pizzas and artisan baked goods. I loved the smart branding, young funky vibe and communal tables.
I also loved this sign...
All too often, kids run amuck in places like this, while the parents bury themselves in conversation with friends.
This brought a smile to my face.
We enjoyed some pizza and salads, pretty good coffee and pastries on two separate occasions over the weekend.
Of course all the usual winery visit stuff can be done, such as tastings and purchases, but we just enjoyed a retreat from the rain in an establishment that would easily be able to hold its own in the big smoke. 
Dinner at the Healesville Hotel also held its own as a fantastic dining destination, be it in the country or city. A perfect spot to sip an interesting selection of glass wine by the open fire, before dinner featuring local wild mushrooms, hand made house charcuterie and international cheeses.
A dessert of quince tarte Tatin with almond milk sorbet was one of the best things I have eaten this month and a hot contender for Dish of the Month. Lets see what can woo me away from this in the next few days, before I tell you more...
I'm looking forward to my next visit, hopefully much sooner than the last, to check out the very newly opened Mandala cellar door and restaurant and crossing-my-fingers that next time the De Bortoli cheese room, may have some of the Richard Thomas fromage blanc that I convet.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Pearl Café
What do you expect when a quality restaurateur opens a café? Smart food, good prices, quick service, value?
I expect all of these.
Pearl Café (or is it Café Pearl?) has opened just up the road from the Pearl Restaurant, that we know and love.
I think it's a big daunting step for a restaurateur to step back and open a café, perhaps that's why it took a year longer than the initial reports speculated.
Attached to the stylishly attainable RG Madden store, Pearl Café is a small space with a large communal high table on warehouse castors (that move a little, unfortunately) some standard tables and a line of chilled displays. The menu is on an impressive cloud printed board that takes up most of one wall space.
We arrived for brunch at 11.30 to learn that breakfast is only served until 11am. Bummer, I am I the only one, that loves eggs on the weekend, even if it is lunch time?
I expect all of these.
Pearl Café (or is it Café Pearl?) has opened just up the road from the Pearl Restaurant, that we know and love.
I think it's a big daunting step for a restaurateur to step back and open a café, perhaps that's why it took a year longer than the initial reports speculated.
Attached to the stylishly attainable RG Madden store, Pearl Café is a small space with a large communal high table on warehouse castors (that move a little, unfortunately) some standard tables and a line of chilled displays. The menu is on an impressive cloud printed board that takes up most of one wall space.
We arrived for brunch at 11.30 to learn that breakfast is only served until 11am. Bummer, I am I the only one, that loves eggs on the weekend, even if it is lunch time?
Moving on from this, we ordered the Vietnamese baguettes; pâté, Asian salad and herbs in a crunchy roll. These were actually quite delicious, with the incredibly crunchy bread, being just like the ones I will eat agian, in a months time in Vietnam and the dressing as tangy and hot. My only gripe would be to add an extra smear of pâté and a little more meat for my $10, please.
A ugly, yet decadently good chocolate crackle, topped it off with a cafe latte.
My only hint to Pearl Café would be to sort out their staffing. Some were very obviously 'helping out' from the restaurant (read, stiff formal 'sir/madam' style service) others were cafe juniors that reeked of the skills shortage that is hurting the industry at every level. A balance needs to be found and no I don't want to see the wine list - for the third time - thanks.
No doubt Pearl Café will be popular for the growing Richmond market. I'd love to try their eggs, as one of my favourite fancy breakfast places was the bar at Pearl (restaurant), I'll just have to get myself organised earlier in the morning next time.
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
Everything old is new again - Sunnybrae Restaurant
Life is cyclical…
This is the reality of food today; yet everything old, can and is becoming new again.
Sunnybrae at Birregurra is a perfect example of this.
I had the pleasure to dine at the reopened Sunnybrae a couple of weekends ago and experienced the old fashioned hospitality of George Biron’s restaurant and home. With excited anticipation of the trip, I spoke with a few friends whom had dined at Sunnybrae in the 1990’s before it had a 7 year hibernation, to try and get a feeling for the experience; it seems very little has changed.
Visiting George’s blog, you get a warm, passionate insight to him as a chef and restaurateur, this was my motivator for the day trip to Birregurra, in person George completes the picture, he does not just offer words on a website.
The ham was curiously gorgeous; soft, nutty and delicate, as good as any I have eaten in Australia, yet the flavour combinations of the salsa blew my socks off.
The South American combination of ripe avocado, lime (and zest?) and the pickled tomatillos was always going to be good but this was amazing, slightly textural, slightly creamy, slightly tangy, just delectable.
A day trip to Sunnybrae is an experience that I hope all passionate foodies get to experience, it’s an old fashioned country restaurant offering modern, enchanting food in the surrounds of a large property (with a sadly dry lake), with friendly staff and a great cook. For me it’s a shame that it's such a drive away but I have since learnt about the possibility of taking the train (and a walk to and from the station), something that I think would be perfect in the right weather and look forward to doing this once it warms.
Being at Sunnybrae refreshes my mind about what pure hospitality is all about - a little taste of this, a splash of that - a desire to share, both time, skill and love of good food. Some old things do become new again, but usually only the good ones.
Welcome back Sunnybrae.
Kitchen gardens were once a necessity to supply food to hungry dining rooms, now they are clever marketing tools capitalising on our desire for fresh S.O.L.E. food.
Collected rain and spring water provided sustenance to regional areas, now it’s bottled and sold as a fashion accessory.
Going to a friend’s home for dinner was a special occasion, now we dine at fancy restaurants, as we can’t remember how to cook.
Seasonality is an old fashioned term that existed before the days of air freighted food that supplies goods all year round from far away places.
Family style platters of real food were prepared with love, now restaurant a la carte and degustation are kings - or worse - the fast food epidemic.
Meals use to be inexpensive and yet high on quality, now meals can be either very expensive and high on quality or inexpensive and poor on quality.
This is the reality of food today; yet everything old, can and is becoming new again.
Sunnybrae at Birregurra is a perfect example of this.
I had the pleasure to dine at the reopened Sunnybrae a couple of weekends ago and experienced the old fashioned hospitality of George Biron’s restaurant and home. With excited anticipation of the trip, I spoke with a few friends whom had dined at Sunnybrae in the 1990’s before it had a 7 year hibernation, to try and get a feeling for the experience; it seems very little has changed.
Visiting George’s blog, you get a warm, passionate insight to him as a chef and restaurateur, this was my motivator for the day trip to Birregurra, in person George completes the picture, he does not just offer words on a website.
The food at Sunnybrae was (more than) generous and refined. The menu consisted of five courses, plus house baked bread served with Georges own just-pressed olive oil and some local olives. The experience is low on the need for decision making; perhaps a chat about different main course options if you like, or otherwise it’s wild rabbit with beetroot and pomegranates, and pick your dessert/cheese course and your done. The handwritten menu changes regularly and is filled with the fruits from the Sunnybrae garden and the surrounding region, it's seasonal and classically respectful.
The meal is a set price of $66 per person, a price that George feels is fair and right, and that I think is too little for such a banquet. I doubt that many people would blink an eye, if that learnt that the price was $99, the sense of value would still be strong. This more than reasonable price is obviously obtainable from a combination of having your own property and the desire and know how to develop the garden to produce fresh food or use basics to add value at the table. Most people charge money for the advantages that their skill and experience brings, Sunnybrae seems happy to share the love.
Milk-fed lamb for main course
Succulent salad - served with main course
Upside down spiced cumquat cake for dessert
We drank rainwater from the property and enjoyed some served sparkling, as promised, from retro soda siphons, we also byo’ed a special bottle of Champagne to share and selected from the list of local wines – again very well priced – no balancing act going on here, with the wine list subsidising the menu.
My favourite dish and actually my May Dish of the Month (a tad late!) is the
Spanish-style ham with spiced tomatillos, avocados and limes – Sunnybrae
The ham was curiously gorgeous; soft, nutty and delicate, as good as any I have eaten in Australia, yet the flavour combinations of the salsa blew my socks off.
The South American combination of ripe avocado, lime (and zest?) and the pickled tomatillos was always going to be good but this was amazing, slightly textural, slightly creamy, slightly tangy, just delectable.
A day trip to Sunnybrae is an experience that I hope all passionate foodies get to experience, it’s an old fashioned country restaurant offering modern, enchanting food in the surrounds of a large property (with a sadly dry lake), with friendly staff and a great cook. For me it’s a shame that it's such a drive away but I have since learnt about the possibility of taking the train (and a walk to and from the station), something that I think would be perfect in the right weather and look forward to doing this once it warms.
Being at Sunnybrae refreshes my mind about what pure hospitality is all about - a little taste of this, a splash of that - a desire to share, both time, skill and love of good food. Some old things do become new again, but usually only the good ones.
Welcome back Sunnybrae.
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Loving St Judes Cellar
Brunswick St, Fitzroy is a fair hike from my neck of the woods - St Kilda.So getting up across the river on a cold Melbourne night, in the rain, was a big call but I was pretty keen to try out the month old St Judes Cellars. We were a little scared through, phoning four times that day - Sunday - the phone rang out and once it was answered by someone that told me they would call back, yet didn't. Obviously we really wanted to go, so a mental backup list was made, in case we not be able to secure a perch at the bar.
We should not have been that worried. St Judes was busy, but never full in the few hours we were there.
We should not have been that worried. St Judes was busy, but never full in the few hours we were there.
A rocky and intimidating start, but the wash-up? I loved it and wish I had a St Judes, closer to home.
I don't think you really have experienced St Judes unless you sit at the bar, perched on a wire framed stool, staring into the busy kitchen and chatting with the waiters. You need to be part of the action, it's kind of like going to MoVida and sitting at the bar, if you don't, you miss out.
The food is very approachable at St Judes. It's all about sharing, which I find a particularly perfect way to eat especially with a loved one - arh PDC... ;) Perhaps though, a little trickier with someone that you don't want to share a spoon with, as then you will both miss out on the intense broths that a few of the dishes are served in. Definitely very spoonable, straight from pot to mouth.
Chef Danielle Rensonnet, has done her time at some of the fancier local restaurants but can also mix her refined style with a casual flair, offset by eclectic pots, thick wooden boards and funky vinyl cut-out place mats and coasters.
A larger dish of 'Kurabuta'(sic) pork is cooked to near melting stage were the meat is so tender that it could be eaten with a spoon as you slurp the broth and celery/parsley sauce from the pot.
A dish that has not won many hearts in the review stakes so far, the braised squid, chickpea and cavolo nero number, I found to be utterly more-ish. With an intense (chicken?) based stock the squid was confetti-ed into tiny strips and just cooked in the broth with a scattering of chickpeas and the herbal cabbage, very Autumnal.
The dishes all felt quite good value for money apart from the eel dish which featured a smear of eel pate, a square of smoked eel and some crack-your-teeth-good croutons.
PDC selected our wine from the wine wall at the front private dining space, a concept that I am yet to fully embrace - great for the selector, but not so good for the dinee, that gets left staring at the kitchen alone (not so bad in my case, but I'm sure you get what I mean).
St Judes is a great, flexible dining space with personable, funky and knowledgeable staff. The room was a little bright for my liking (but perfect for camera welding food bloggers) and outfitted in a manner that reassures me that you don't need a multimillion dollar budget to create a desirable space, just a bit of hospitality smarts and the guts to pull it off.
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
No chopsticks for me?
I enjoyed a quick bowl of noodles at the new Pacific BBQ Cafe on Lonsdale St in the city last week.
After reading Mellies post and enjoying the food at both the Victoria St and Toorak Road restaurants, I popped in for some noodles and duck. But this is not the significant part of my experience, - yes the duck was great - but I was given a fork and spoon to eat my noodle soup and duck with... no chopsticks. What the?
At first I thought it was a mistake or at the least a 'round eye' gesture, but as I looked around the busy dining room, I noticed that most of the Asian guests were also using the said mentioned fork and spoon. What is this, I questioned to myself, some kind of western mimicking trend?
I've been using chopsticks in Chinese restaurants in Australia since my Dad made my 'trainee' pair with a rubber band and some folded napkin, way before I new that special fried rice is not that special.
I'm not sure what the story is here, but after spying some chopsticks on a close by waiters station I asked for a pair and then could eat my soupy noodles. I know the fork would have been a disaster, just too hard.
As I pondered my noodles, I thoroughly read the menu on display through the glass top table, I noticed a few other irregularities about the Pacific BBQ Cafe, how does this take your fancy...
Grilled cheese with seafood on rice or spaghetti $14
At first, I assumed this was a case of 'chinlish' but as I read on I realised to my horror it wasn't and yes, you can also order either stir fried spaghetti with chicken, bacon in cream sauce or a hamburger (I saw the sesame seeded bun go past to another table!).
Not your thing, then what about a spam sandwich?
I suddenly felt like I was in a strange backpacker friendly, Chinese restaurant in Asia.
I came to Pacific BBQ for the duck and that's what I got and it was brilliant but I question a kitchen that seriously serves hamburger buns and stir fried spaghetti next to it's traditional Chinese fair, or tell me, is it my fault for not 'getting it'?
Any insights into the 'no chopstick' thing? Please do share...!
After reading Mellies post and enjoying the food at both the Victoria St and Toorak Road restaurants, I popped in for some noodles and duck. But this is not the significant part of my experience, - yes the duck was great - but I was given a fork and spoon to eat my noodle soup and duck with... no chopsticks. What the?
At first I thought it was a mistake or at the least a 'round eye' gesture, but as I looked around the busy dining room, I noticed that most of the Asian guests were also using the said mentioned fork and spoon. What is this, I questioned to myself, some kind of western mimicking trend?
I've been using chopsticks in Chinese restaurants in Australia since my Dad made my 'trainee' pair with a rubber band and some folded napkin, way before I new that special fried rice is not that special.
I'm not sure what the story is here, but after spying some chopsticks on a close by waiters station I asked for a pair and then could eat my soupy noodles. I know the fork would have been a disaster, just too hard.
As I pondered my noodles, I thoroughly read the menu on display through the glass top table, I noticed a few other irregularities about the Pacific BBQ Cafe, how does this take your fancy...
Grilled cheese with seafood on rice or spaghetti $14
At first, I assumed this was a case of 'chinlish' but as I read on I realised to my horror it wasn't and yes, you can also order either stir fried spaghetti with chicken, bacon in cream sauce or a hamburger (I saw the sesame seeded bun go past to another table!).
Not your thing, then what about a spam sandwich?
I suddenly felt like I was in a strange backpacker friendly, Chinese restaurant in Asia.
I came to Pacific BBQ for the duck and that's what I got and it was brilliant but I question a kitchen that seriously serves hamburger buns and stir fried spaghetti next to it's traditional Chinese fair, or tell me, is it my fault for not 'getting it'?
Any insights into the 'no chopstick' thing? Please do share...!
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
World's 50 Best Restaurants
Yesterday in London, the 2008 Restaurant Magazines 50 Best Restaurants from around the globe were announced.
On the Australian front, the humble Tetsuya's restaurant is ranked number 9, down from the heady heights of the top five last year and Rockpool (fish) is number 49 from 33 as the original Rockpool last year.
Locally the only Melbourne ranking is Vue de Monde at 76, also down a little from last years 71.
Personally, I was rapt to see Mugaritz up to number 4, my glowing piece from last year is another testament to how special it really is.
While your surfing through, make sure to read all the way to the bottom of each of the profiled restaurants or you'll miss the "Not a lot of people don't know section". I'm sure this will keep me going for hours!
Happy reading
On the Australian front, the humble Tetsuya's restaurant is ranked number 9, down from the heady heights of the top five last year and Rockpool (fish) is number 49 from 33 as the original Rockpool last year.
Locally the only Melbourne ranking is Vue de Monde at 76, also down a little from last years 71.
Personally, I was rapt to see Mugaritz up to number 4, my glowing piece from last year is another testament to how special it really is.
While your surfing through, make sure to read all the way to the bottom of each of the profiled restaurants or you'll miss the "Not a lot of people don't know section". I'm sure this will keep me going for hours!
Happy reading
Friday, April 18, 2008
Seamstress - disappointing
I thought I'd be raving about this place, but unfortunately I can't.
The chef forgot to season our food.
The problem for me in sharing this with you, is that I know, my experience must have been a hiccup. With a number of supportive reviews in the traditional media, there is no way that this is indicative of a meal that you could perhaps experience there tonight.
So please don't take this post as my suggestion not to go and give it a go yourself, yet I feel I have a responsibility to share my truthful food experiences with you, even when unfortunately it was not good, in fact - embarrassingly bad.
Of the six items from the menu and specials that we ordered; one was seasoned well, delicious and well cooked, two were underseasoned and three dishes had no flavour at all, due to there being no salt in the dish - a massive faux pas especially when you are eating tofu.
The chef forgot to season our food.
The problem for me in sharing this with you, is that I know, my experience must have been a hiccup. With a number of supportive reviews in the traditional media, there is no way that this is indicative of a meal that you could perhaps experience there tonight.
So please don't take this post as my suggestion not to go and give it a go yourself, yet I feel I have a responsibility to share my truthful food experiences with you, even when unfortunately it was not good, in fact - embarrassingly bad.
Of the six items from the menu and specials that we ordered; one was seasoned well, delicious and well cooked, two were underseasoned and three dishes had no flavour at all, due to there being no salt in the dish - a massive faux pas especially when you are eating tofu.
For the sake of clarity, I dined there two weekends ago. We selected the above 'tofu box' on the waiters recommendation, some of the house dumplings of prawn and crab, some roast pork belly, a special dish of venison carpaccio and a braised beef cheek dish with a green beans side.
The dining room was smart, lots of cute high attention to detail pieces. Someone had really thought about the space and its look. We loved the silk draped roof - perhaps less so in the severely overcrowed bar - and smiled at the beautiful plates and equipment as they were presented to us. It all seemed right and what we had expected.
The food unfortunately was extremely disappointing. The dumplings, carpaccio and tofu were the first round of shared dishes that arrived. Upon tasting these initially we were puzzled and asked our waiter for some 'salt or soy sauce' (as I was uncertain which way the kitchen would be inclined). We were delivered some thick dark soy sauce that was fine to season the flavourless tofu and mushrooms but impossible for the carpaccio and dumplings. We powered on and made the most of a difficult scenario.
The next dishes, the belly and then braised cheek and greens were not much better, the cooking technique was indisputably good, the belly was crispy skinned and fat rendered the cheek was edible with chopsticks, yet both dishes were missing that chef touch, were tasting as you go is an absolute necessity. The beans were the final straw for me, listed as 'salt and pepper' we giggled as we spoke quietly of the peppered beans, as again I asked the waiter for some salt.
In an extreme contrast to our meal, Jason Chan one of the owners and one of Australia's best baristas noticed us in the dining room from our visits to Batch, his cafe in Balaclava. He made and served PDC what he could only describe as the perfect espresso; short, clean and heady.
I have been torn about writing this piece, I'm not a restaurant whinger. I understand that 'stuff' can happen, yet the truth is that the kitchen severely dropped the ball the night I dined.
Will I go back? Sure, but perhaps I'll let a little time pass first.
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