Wednesday, December 19, 2007

Noodle soup tour of Melbourne

It's one of those things that you don't even realise that your craving, but in the matter of a week and a bit, I deliberately drove out of my way to get a delicious bowl of noodle soup.

Each bowl had their own attractions, at Laksa King, it was the deep aromatic spices of the coconut curry, rich and satisfying, at Pho Dzung Tan Dinh it was the clean and healthy feeling of chilli and chicken broth.




Sliced chicken and rare beef pho





Seafood laksa noodle soup

The beautiful advantages of living in Melbourne, driving from the boring lunch den of South Yarra (I should except Suzuran as it is still a favourite) to the diverse opportunities of Victoria St (Pho Dzung Tan Dinh, #208) or Racecourse Rd (Laksa King, #320).
Both places have an obvious following, a lengthy queue can develop for the foolish late comers, yet a quick table for one never seems a problem.
Having been to Vietnam and Malaysia, the home of these dishes in the past few years, it reminds me of the complexity of flavours that you miss if you dine at the usual 'modern' offerings. No where else in Melbourne have I been able to identify the sweet mix of spice, coconut and chilli that I crave at Laksa King. Even the accessible Laksa Me doesn't live up to the true flavours and generosity of crunchy textural prawns, mussels, calamari, fish and fried tofu in a broth that leaves my tummy giggling as I just can't leave it behind.

My chicken and beef pho is reminiscent of the first bowl I ate at in Hanoi. A few years back, late at night, delirious from a flight we went wandering for food. Until a funny little place appeared on the corner, kiddy stools and tables, and remarkable soup that we pointed and ordered. The regulars giggled politely at us as we sign-languaged our way through a beer order as well. I could eat if for breakfast, lunch and dinner even in the Hanoi summer of 40C and 90% humidity, perhaps in between strong condensed milk iced coffees!

While on Victoria St. I find it impossible to by-pass Ming Tan II. They are the only place I know of in Melbourne where I can get 'snow balls' or glutenous rice balls. In Sydney, I would eat them with a coconut, sugar and sesame crumble centre, at Ming Tan II, it's usually egg custard, yet last week it was mango!


Chunks of ripe mango in sticky rice paste balls with sweetened coconut, a new favourite (190 Victoria St.) get in before the mangos are finished!
Jack

11 comments:

  1. you are a girl after my own heart!

    I am a big fan of the noodle soup, from laksa to pho, udon, ramen, and the chinese one my mum cooked that we would call simply "soupy noodles".

    Laksa is probably my addiction tho'! If you are coming to Sydney To's is a must.

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  2. You have to come visit Springvale where we Eastern Suburbs people go for our Pho. The Pho at Springvale is very authentic too and so many shops to choose from. My favourite one is Hung Vuong on Buckingham Avenue.

    You can also pick up those glutinous snowballs from lots of grocery stores and bakeries in Springvale. I actually like the glutinous balls with ice cream in them, like you get at Japanese restaurants. You can buy those from the Chinese grocers in Springvale too for ridiculously cheap prices.

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  3. As much as I like Laksa king's laksa, somehow some thing is still not quite right. I hvn't found one shop that i find is truely fantastic. Now, I cook my own, unfortunately, premix! =D But the taste is much closer to home. Most places we've been to here, dont add a certain type of mint leave (which i so dearly addressed as Laksa Leaves). I hv no idea what's the exact name though.

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  4. Wow Thanh, snowballs with ice cream! Do you buy them from the freezer?
    Phyllis, the funny thing about my love of laksa is that when I was in Malaysia last year, I didn't even have one, (not from lack of trying though...). I spent most of my time in the north eatern islands and then KL, and later found that they are a regional speciality from the south. Bugger.
    I've had quite a few laksas at Laksa King and have to say the last was superb, the sweet and savoury spice components where in perfect harmony. Arhhh :)
    Jack

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  5. Jack, yep the snowballs with ice cream are in the freezer area. The Springvale IGA has them real cheap and in many different flavours too.

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  6. Errm, South of what/where? As far as I know, Laksa is a Nonya Food (Peranakan). The laksa leave is also known as hot mint =). Finally took at a look at my potted mint to check the name. I find it difficult to find it at the supermarket, so now i grow it myself! =D It makes a huge difference to the dish. Definitely taste better than the usual spring onions Or the much dreaded mint leaves (argh).

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  7. Phyllis; yes your right, yet whenever I asked I was told south, pehaps 'south' meant closer to Singapore, as i spent most of my time very close to thailand.
    The hot mint you refer to is readily available on Victoria St, usually as Vietnamese mint. You can even see some in the image of my pho! I find it grows really well in Melbourne as long as you remember to water it (my problem!) and I did have some in my garden, though i never used it that much, as I usually go out for food that it would work best with. Though i did have some with a charcoal beef dish at Mugaritz, (see the link on my tags)
    Jack

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  8. Actually the hot mint I'm referring to, isn't the vietnamese mint that you have with your pho. It's quite different in taste and smell. But both mints have the same problem with water... you can never water enough.

    I don't know much about food, except the fact that I love to eat! As for the 'obsession' with the type of mint in my laksa, I blame it on my mum. =)

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  9. I think i'm getting insane. Anyway.. I went to hv a quick search and this is what i found. It is indeed known as Vietnamese mint or vietnamese coriander, or cilantro or cambodian mint or hot mint (Polygonum odoratum) - I never knew that! I always associate viet mint to those we hv in the pho.

    In Malaysia and Singapore it is known as daun kesom or daun laksa (laksa leaf). However, the ones found in our Pho is known as thai basil. I never bothered with all these names, as i tend to remember the smell and the taste. But now i know better. =)

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polygonum_odoratum
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thai_basil

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  10. Arhhh, got to love wikipedia! That's were I refered to before I got out the Oxford Companion to Food, that backed up the confusing use of multiple names for the same herb in different SE Asian countries. Alan Davidson the author lived in Asia for quite a while and therefore is impecible in his account of foods from these areas.
    Jack

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