I'm not the type to visit a new restaurant too early in the piece. I appreciate that things can be difficult in the first few weeks and even months. I know I have been there.
Yet I was compelled to visit Giuseppe Arnaldo & Sons (GA&S), as soon as possible. I have been anticipating Maurice Terzinis new venture eagerly. I didn't live in Melbourne during the Cafe e Cucina days, but was in Sydney working close by when Otto took Sydney by storm. I then moved to Melbourne as Icebergs and North Bondi Italian Food tackled both ends of the famous beach. I have the cook book, I saw him speak last year, and yes I am a fan.
I dined at GA&S last Sunday and left in awe of the experience, I haven't posted until tonight as I didn't want this to be a gushy post, yet I can't help myself.
GA&S doesn't take reservations, this will make and lose them some friends. I like the casual philosophy behind the idea, a great place that I can turn up to and eat, even if I have to wait. Anticipation is a virtue.
Before I jump straight into the food, you really need to get an understanding of the space. It is inspired, extremely well thought out, sexy and moody, the lights are theatrical. I had a design-y friend on the phone this afternoon, wax lyrical about the space. She dined last night and was didn't even mention the food until I asked specifically, it was all 'positive and negative space', 'Italian fittings', lights, toilets... the list goes on. In a nutshell we both thought it was hot, I just didn't have the words she had.
But I do have the words for food and eat we did. The menu at GA&S is huge and for the uninitiated this can mean intimidating. I find the same thing at Rockpool just up the fiery promenade, too much to select from increases the risk of missing out on 'the' dish. The imaginary one that I know, once I am stuffed I'll see go pass to another table and I will have order envy.
But this didn't happen at GA&S, we just ordered heaps.
I loved the oregano dusted school prawns, they reminded me of the crispy fried seafood I had at Cal Pep, the prawns seasoned and fried whole, were well spiced and crunchy the aioli was delicious but not required they were perfect just on their own in their kitch little black and gold basket with checked red napkin.
When you go, and you should, make sure have to some of the house salumi. Made by Robert Marchetti with the Vecchiet family, we tried the culatello but I'd eat any of the sliced to order meats from the rather fancy looking glass cabinet.
We also tried the Alba style raw ox; a roughly cut tartare with swiss brown mushrooms, a serve of the angry crab pasta baked in a paper bag and one I could not go past, Clams casino; some pippies, vongole, surf clams and periwinkles sauteed with cured pigs cheek.
Then there was also..., ok yes we ate a lot, it was all fantastic.
Maurice wasn't at the restaurant the night we were there (hopefully he was resting his broken foot) but I doubt we could have been looked after better than we were. Ari Vlassopoulos a reliable friendly face of Melbourne restaurants, kept a careful watch.
I have no doubt that GA&S will become an iconic asset to the Melbourne dining scene, just looking around the night I was there, the hospitality faces are already onto it, and they know a good meal.
I'll be back shortly, I need to get through the rest of the menu and just as it was the first time, I just can't wait.
Giuseppe Arnaldo & Sons
Crown complex (access via the promenade under the highway)
ph: 9694 7400
Thanks Jack - we've been contemplated stepping over the threshold but are slightly wary of casino hype and the tendency for style over substance.
ReplyDeleteI'm not surprised that Maurice also following the trend for Salumi and - given that you ordered lots of stuff - is he also following the big trend for Assagio(tapas/dim sum/small plates)?
I was in there Thursday night late and thought it was pretty good although I ducked as the flames whooshed behind me. Story and pics coming soon
ReplyDeleteBeen looking forward to its opening, as well as the impending opening of Bistro Guillaume next week. Crown is really starting to become Melbourne's premier restaurant precinct. Glad you enjoyed yourself. I'll have to try it out soon.
ReplyDeleteHappy eating,
Jon!
Hi Sticky,
ReplyDeleteYou could easily just eat the entrees but the menu format does have larger main course dishes. We ate three entrees to share, (prawns, salumi, ox) two mains to share (crab and clams) a side dish of steamed samphire, a (large) serve of stravecchino cheese and affogatos. I also felt the value for money was very good.
Ed; look forward to your thoughts. How many hospitality faces did you see, its all names names names from what I hear.
Jon! Will definitly be in at Guillaumes as well soon, but LOVED GA&S.
Jack
Okay, I've posted my bit. I love it and want to go back earlier in the night to see how noisy it gets with the tiles. The only annoying thing is that we can't book.
ReplyDeleteOkay, I've posted my bit. I love it and want to go back earlier in the night to see how noisy it gets with the tiles. The only annoying thing is that we can't book.
ReplyDeleteI'm back again on Friday night and assume it will be pumping, so i'll pull out the noise meter for you Ed. But I bet they have it covered with some type of fancy panelling that you can't see.
ReplyDeleteDoubly impressed today at recieving a "grazie mille" email from Maurice. Very professional, and they say restauranteurs and chefs are not into bloggers, perhaps some just need to catch up to the smart operators.
Jack
I have just recently returned from a trip to Melbourne where myself and family caught up for a 5 day food fest (and some shopping in there somewhere) and ate at some memorable places and some not so memorable. First let me tell you the good places: Movidas lunch on Thursday; Gills Diner - breakfast Friday Morning; Vue de Monde Restaurant - lunch Friday; Gills Diner - dinner Friday; The European - breakfast Saturday morning and Monday morning.
ReplyDeleteThe worst dining experience and only in Melbourne was Giuseppe Arnaldo and Sons. Nothing was right on the night.
Arrived at 6:30pm and were told we had an hour to wait. It took 2.5 hours. Surely the staff could turn over tables quicker than that especially with the size of the restaurant and the volume of people waiting to be seated. We were told for the last hour that the table we were going to be on were just finishing their coffee ??
We were not deterred however as one of our party had eaten at the other restaurants in Bondi and was keen for us to try the outstanding cuisine however none arrived. The service was poor. The table waiter had no idea how to serve the food. We had 10 dishes and 2.5 (the 0.5 being the garnish) were deemed good (6/10) and the rest were very ordinairy (nothing over 2/10). We all agreed (6 persons) on the ratings. Not one person liked a dish that others didn't. The lack of quality really showed through in the food.
I would totally NOT recommend going to this restaurant until they sort out their "teething" problems (i'm being polite I think). If you want to celebrate an occassion stay away as it will ruin the day/night.
A quick comment on the decor - what a joke. Its a bloody restaurant not a nightclub. It was just too dark.
Hey Karen
ReplyDeleteSounds like you had an amazing dining weekend. It seems we like very similar places, all of your good list is also covered on Eating with Jack... except you obviously didn't dig GA&S. Could I recommend that you share your thoughts with management and drop them and email, good restaurateurs always appreciate constructive feedback, my only suggestion is that you be a bit clearer about what it was specifically that you did not like.
Obviously you waited for the table, but since I'm assuming it was Saturday night these things can happen, without bookings it can be tricky.
I'd suggest that you have a think about what the "quality" issues with the food and service were, be specific and offer examples.
I'd love to know if you tried any of the dishes on the list on my follow-up piece, I loved these and can't see how you could have quality issues with them.
Lastly, I don't think of GA&S as beening a special occasion restaurant, its a more drop in have dinner and a glass of wine setup, perhaps more Gills Diner than Vue de monde, despite the fancy fit out. Gosh and the lights, I love them, I guess you can't please everyone.
Love to hear how you go, feel free to drop me an email if you like.
Jack
NB Last weekend I went to GA&S for the forth time, I've become a junky!
GAS it was not! Waiters in lab coats who were big on attitude but not on service. Made me feel like I was doing them the favour by gracing this place. GAS is confused about what it is but has no qualms about charging restaurant prices, including a 10% surchage on Public Holidays (and also, I forgot as GAS apparently also did when printing their menu, on Sundays). Ridiculous and greedy!
ReplyDeleteDark decor with no natural light during the day. When sitting at the bar, I could not read the menu. The restaurant (I think that's what it is!)has the feel of being stuck in a basement.
Unisex toilets, also terribly badly lit, are not a good idea.
The menu is too detailed with much too much fine print. Lost my appetite trying to decipher the menu and then wondering how many pieces of salami(or Salumi as its apparently named according to the menu!)I would get for $12.
Coffee at $4.40 a cup did not make it taste any better.
Altogether an experience that I do not intend to repeat. I understand why Terzini and Marchetti put their fathers' first names to the place. Saves tarnishing the family names.
Service staff were pushy and highly unprofessional. Asking repeatedly for entree and wine orders was highly disruptive to our soiree. I ordered the 400g Wagyu to share for $95. When ordering, I made sure to ask the waitress of our table what grade the Wagyu was. She did not know and promised to check with the kitchen. Ten minutes later and after repeated reminders, she informed me that their Wagyu was a grade 5+ and I proceeded to change my order. She told me that it was too late and I had to be charged for it whether I had it or not. $95 for 400g (felt like 300g) of inferior quality beef that no self respecting butcher would label 'Wagyu' was such a terrible disappointment.
ReplyDeleteFor a restaurant that claims to take pride in the quality of their produce, this experience was a shocking revelation of their ineptness and poor training of wait staff. What do you order when you visit the restaurant? seeing that you've been there 4 times, at least one item is working for you.
Disappointed and Jeremy...
ReplyDeleteI'm feeling like an agony aunt here.
I appreciate you dropping by, and I am happy to help anyway I can, but I only hope you are sharing your disappointment with the GA&S management.
I wholeheartenly, believe that some restaurant styles are not for everyone and every occassion (or lack of one in this case). Its kind of like people, some you click with others you don't and even some friends are good for some occassions and not others; a quiet night friend or a clubbing friend...
Funny enough I hadn't been for a little while but popped in before a movie on Sunday night. Still consistantly good, perhaps the portions a little smaller but still good.
Jeremy if you have a look at my follow up post http://eatingwithjack.blogspot.com/2008/03/ga-follow-up-visit.html you can see quite an extensive list of the dishes I've seen. On Sunday I also tried the pork sausages; rich meaty flavour with the braised lentils and the school prawns are still just as good.
I did a little research for you, just so you know if you are going to send an email to GA&S. The menu online lists
"Wagyu/ Angus Rib Eye 400 grams
Exclusively grown for GA & Sons
Sliced for 2 people 95"
As far as I understand, a cross breed of Wagyu (as listed) is never going to have a very high marble score. You would be better trotting off down the promanade to Rockpool and paying more than $95 for half the weight because that's what quality full blood wagyu costs.
I think they have done the right thing appart from the service perhaps being a little slow, but to be honest at any restaurant if I was unconvinced about a menu item i just wouldn't order it.
Let me know how you go with your complaint.
Jack